As the world dives into molten lava cakes, cheesecakes in jars, and fusion desserts topped with gold flakes, there’s one humble sweet that refuses to be forgotten — Andhra Pradesh’s iconic “Paper Mithai”, a dish that is said to be around 300 years old. In an age where desserts are getting flashier by the minute, this whisper-thin, melt-in-the-mouth sweet still holds its ground, not with glitter, but with nostalgia.
In the quiet village of Atreyapuram on the banks of the Godavari in Andhra Pradesh, a delicate, melt‑in‑the‑mouth sweet called Putharekulu has been made for centuries. Known as the “paper sweet,” it looks like a rolled sheet of tissue yet surprises you with rich ghee, jaggery or sugar, and sometimes dry fruits tucked inside.
A Sweet Born by Chance
The name Putharekulu comes from Telugu: “Putha” (coating) and “Reku” (sheet). Local legend says that long ago, a clever woman used leftover rice starch over a hot clay pot, forming a wafer‑thin rice sheet by accident. Filling it with jaggery and ghee created something magical and thus the art of Putharekulu was born.
The Rice That Makes It Special
What makes this sweet truly unique is the rice used: Jaya biyyam, also known as MTU‑3626 or Bondalu rice. This sticky, starchy, local variety is soaked, ground into a very fine batter, then used to form the paper-thin sheets.
The Delicate Craft
Women of Atreyapuram masterfully dip a fine cotton cloth into the rice batter and touch it to an inverted, heated clay pot, forming a nearly transparent rice film in seconds. These fragile sheets are carefully lifted, spread with ghee, then sprinkled with powdered sugar or jaggery and sometimes cardamom and chopped nuts and folded into rolls.
A Community Craft and Economic Pillar
Today, around 400 women in Atreyapuram are employed in the making of Putharekulu, making it a vital industry. Many families depend on this skill, passed down through generations. Some expert sweet-makers can create over a thousand sheets a day, a blend of speed and tradition.
A Sweet with a Record
To promote this unique sweet, in 2018, local makers and tourism officials rolled out a 10.5-metre-long Puthareku, grabbing media attention and showcasing the craftsmanship of the village.
The sweet also gained official recognition when it received the Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2023, giving it legal protection and identity linked to its place of origin.
Where In Hyderabad
Putharekulu is available at shops like Atreyapuram Pootharekulu (Kukatpally), Almond House, ATPU (SR Nagar), Godavari Vantillu (online), and G. Pulla Reddy Sweets. Prices range from Rs.180 to Rs.400 for 5 to 10 pieces, depending on the filling (sugar, jaggery, or dry fruits).
Next time you crave something light yet indulgent, unwrap a roll of Putharekulu. Let it melt on your tongue and discover the taste of Andhra’s sweetest legacy.
