“Every mistake is called a fashion designer,” says Haji Sahab with a hearty laugh, as he begins to share his story as a Karchob Wala.
In the lane going right up to Charminar, Haji Sahab sits in his lively shop, surrounded by vibrant fabrics, traditional laces, and intricate embroidery work. He reflects on his lifetime dedicated to this craft, “This work is my virasat that I have gotten from my father Afzal Miyan. After years of being under the guidance of his mamu as an orphan, he started this shop in 1947 when he was in his late teens.”
Standing strong in the same place, the shop has become a landmark for anyone seeking the finest karchob work. Over the decades, it has transformed into more than just a business- it’s a symbol of tradition, passed down from generation to generation.
“My father’s only aim was to teach everyone this craft. So, he not only taught me but also trained my sons to perfect it,” he reminisces. Outside of family, Afzal Miyan was also involved in training artisans from all backgrounds and his wife would teach women from the neighborhood.
Now, the responsibility of furthering this art lies on Haji Sahab and his son Abdul Qadar.
As Abdul Qadar reflects on their legacy, he acknowledges the unique expertise of his father: “Only my father knows the art of karchob. After him, my brother and I will only be able to supervise the artisans; we won’t be able to create the intricate designs ourselves.”
For those unacquainted with the world of karchob, it’s an art form that involves intricate hand embroidery using metallic threads. Historically, this technique was favored by royalty for its rich, elaborate patterns. Today, it has found its place in the wardrobes of anyone seeking timeless luxury.
Afzal Miyan ke Qadrdaan
Being one of the few traditional artisans available in Hyderabad, Afzal Miyan Karchobwala has a revered portfolio of clients including the Owaisi family, Shah Alam Khan family, Babu Khan family, GVK Reddy family, Masqati family, Siasat family, and many more.
In fact, Haji Sahab also got the honor of creating the dastar of Azmat Ali Khan at his coronation as the ninth titular Nizam of Hyderabad on January 20, 2023, at Chowmahalla Palace.
While Afzal Miyan Karchob Wala has been ruling the hearts of Hyderabadis for the longest time now, very few know that he sits as a quiet legend in India’s top fashion houses.
Renowned designers like Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Tarun Tahiliani, Manish Malhotra, and many more frequently visit his shop to source authentic karchob work and the exorbitant Lampi lace for their prestigious collections. Sabyasachi, known for his luxurious bridal wear and rich textiles, often incorporates Haji Sahab’s intricate embroidery into his designs, blending traditional artistry with modern fashion sensibilities. His collections are celebrated for their depth of culture and exquisite detailing, qualities that are hallmarks of Haji Sahab’s work.
Similarly, Manish Malhotra regularly seeks Haji Sahab’s expertise to enhance his creations with traditional artistry.
“They’re just adders, we are the true designers,” Haji Sahab explains with a laugh. “That’s why I always tell them, ‘every mistake is called a fashion designer.’ What they do is take my work, use a small part of it in their designs alongside other embroidery techniques, making it hard for any other designer to replicate. In doing so, the essence of pure zardozi is often lost,” he shares with Siasat.com.
Interestingly, Haji Sahab’s craftsmanship extends beyond the fashion world. His intricate work has graced the uniforms of high-ranking officials in the Rajput Regiment, Army Medical Corps, and Indian Air Force. He has even designed badges for the United Nations Emergency Force (UNEF), showcasing the versatility and timeless appeal of zardozi across various prestigious institutions.
In addition to serving the defense sector, Haji Sahab’s creations have found international appeal. Every year, his shop sends handcrafted Christmas ornaments to countries like Russia and the UK. These delicately embroidered ornaments, adorned with shimmering gold and silver threads, carry a piece of Hyderabad’s rich cultural heritage to homes across the globe.
The Lost Threads of Tradition
Haji Sahab believes that in today’s modern world, only a few truly appreciate the significance of karchob, and he attributes part of this decline to fashion designers.
Furthermore, as artisans are now trying to modernize themselves, this shift often frustrates him. The old ways of pure craftsmanship, where every detail was meticulously handcrafted with specific materials, are slowly being replaced by modern shortcuts. For Haji Sahab, this adaptation takes away the essence of true zardozi work, and he remains determined to preserve the purity of karchob as much as possible through Afzal Miyan Karchob Wala.
