Hyderabadi jewelry is a rich tapestry of history, blending various cultural influences that span centuries. From Mughal and Persian to South Indian and Deccan traditions, each design carries a legacy of royal patronage and meticulous craftsmanship.
Owing to this connection to the city’s regal past, a Hyderabadi bride does not view her jewelry as just an accessory but as a reflection of her culture. So, when assembling the perfect bridal jewelry collection, it’s important to focus on key pieces that perfectly embody this culture.
To help brides-to-be choose the perfect pieces for their collection, Siasat.com has curated a guide featuring must-have jewelry that embodies Hyderabad’s legacy. This carefully selected collection ensures that every bride carries a piece of the city’s rich history and artistry with her on her special day.
1. Satlada
The Satlada Necklace is a seven-strand pearl necklace, historically passed down from the Nizams of Hyderabad. Known for its exquisite Basra pearls, the necklace features 465 pearls, with larger ones in the center and smaller ones at the ends. The strands are attached to gold terminals, set with diamonds and surrounded by pearls. This iconic piece reflects Hyderabad’s regal legacy and intricate craftsmanship, with the pearls’ soft luster ranging from white to light pink.
2. Jadavi Lacha and Karan Phool
The Jadavi Lacha is a choker-style necklace adorned with uncut diamonds, pearls, and vibrant gemstones, often highlighted with green stones. This necklace is complemented by Karan Phool, a floral-design earring known for its ornate attachment to hair. Jadavi Lacha is usually paired with a Satlada on bridal Khada Dupatta.
3. Guluband
The Guluband is a traditional Hyderabadi necklace, created by stringing together small panels, often set with gemstones, metals, or enamel. It may also feature coins or hanging elements like pearls or emeralds. The term “Guluband” derives from “gala” (neck) and “bandh” (to close), emphasizing its role as a neckpiece that ties together both beauty and culture. This piece is popular for its intricate design and striking visual appeal, often worn during weddings.
4. Tirmani
The Tirmani is a traditional necklace from the Nizam’s jewelry collection, known for its name which translates to “three gemstones.” Typically crafted with diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and pearls, this necklace draws comparisons to European cameo chokers. Its elegant design adds a touch of sophistication and refinement, making it a perfect complement to sarees and blouses for formal or ceremonial occasions.
5. Jugni
It is a traditional Hyderabadi pendant set, named after the Punjabi word for a female firefly. The pendant, typically pear-shaped or paisley in design, features a large uncut polki gemstone at its center, encircled by clusters of pearls and emerald avezas on either side. It is set in the traditional bandghat style. Historically, the Jugni was worn by the royal Begums of Hyderabad and is considered an essential piece in a Hyderabadi woman’s jewelry collection.
6. Chandbali / Pankhiya
Chandbali is believed to have originated in Hyderabad, with some sources tracing their design to the Nizams and others to the royal Rajput dynasty of Rajasthan. However, It is the Nizam family’s women who are credited with popularizing this elegant jewelry in the subcontinent. These earrings feature a crescent moon shape, typically studded with gems and adorned with small pearls. They are also referred to as Pankhiya in Hyderabad.
7. Lac Bangles
They are particularly popular in Hyderabad’s bridal jewelry collections, known for their vibrant colors. Made from lacquer, they are often embellished with stones, beads, or intricate carvings. Owing to its unique craftsmanship and history, the bangles have also earned a GI tag.
8. Pasa
This piece of jewelry, typically worn on the forehead, is a triangular ornament made of pearls and gold, often highlighted with gemstones, adding a touch of glamour to a bridal ensemble. It is also called Jhumar.
9. Sar Pench
While not bridal jewelry, Sar Pench is a popular turban ornament for Hyderabadi grooms. Popularized by the Nizams, it was an essential part of their regal attire, often crafted with diamonds and emeralds in intricate designs. The Sar Pench symbolized royal elegance, reflecting the opulence of the Nizam’s court, where such ornaments were prized for their craftsmanship and precious stones.
What are the other must-have jewelry pieces in your collection? Comment below.
