While Hyderabadi restaurants boast of serving the best, a true Hyderabadi knows that the essence of our culinary heritage is best captured at weddings.
From the biryani and haleem to the ‘shaadiyo waala mittha’, weddings in the city are a grand celebration of flavors. Among these several delicacies, Lukhmi once served as a ubiquitous starter. This flaky, golden pastry served with a filling of spiced kheema or a seekh kebab on the side usually set the stage for the feast that will follow.
However, this iconic dish has quietly slipped off the dastar to make place for more trendy and global flavors. Indeed, its disappearance raises the question: why has Lukhmi become a rare sight on our plates, and what does it say about the new Hyderabad’s tastes?
The rise and fall of Lukhmi
“Legend has it that Lukhmi kebab was introduced during the reign of the Nizams. It was an authentic dish, first crafted by the royal kitchen for the awaam-e-khas– the Nizam’s exclusive gatherings,” says Md Umair Ahmed of Al Maharaja Caterers. Some even say that it was introduced as a unique meaty twist to the evergreen snack Samosa.
Lukhmi was not just a dish but a statement. Served to the select few during royal gatherings, it found its way into the weddings of Hyderabad after the end of the Nizami rule. “Initially, it was a highly coveted item, and only those from well-established families could afford to have Lukhmi on their wedding menus as it required large amounts of meat for preparation,” Umair tells Siasat.com.
As Hyderabad’s economy increased, Lukhmi gradually became more accessible, finding its way into every wedding. At one point in time, the flaky pastry served as the only starter on the wedding menu, making it more beloved among locals. It was also essential to pre-wedding festivities like Manje and Sanchak, solidifying its position in the shaadi culture.
Around 15 years ago or so, Lukhmi began to face stiff competition from various contemporary dishes. “Today you will find Chinese starters like spring rolls, and chicken sticks taking center stage in the weddings,” he says, “Seafood has also become the popular choice with dishes like dynamite prawns, Apollo fish, Patrani fish, and sauteed prawns.”
This newer menu reflects the globalized taste of today’s generation and their focus on experimenting with diverse flavors moving past traditionalism.
Modern menus of Hyderabadi weddings
What began with ‘at-home’ wedding ceremonies where only Osmania biscuit and chai were served has now evolved into lavish affairs. Today, menus often start with a range of 7 to 8 starters, 6 to 7 main dishes, and at least 3 to 4 desserts, along with drinks like Saudi champagne and flavored mojitos. Live BBQ, Dosa, and Pani Puri counters have also become popular in the past few years.
“Back in the 1980s and 90s, a wedding feast would typically feature no more than five items- simple yet satisfying,” says Umair, “Now, it’s a completely grand affair.”
Hyderabadis’ love for grandeur extends to every detail and even the rare Lukhmi has been reimagined to fit a modern wedding. In the few weddings where the dish still makes an appearance, its presentation has been elevated to a seekh kebab wrapped around a sword and placed above a platter of Lukhmis.
This evolution of menus reflects a larger trend of Hyderabad’s growing desire to embrace luxury and extravagance over nostalgia. As this wedding culture continues to change with the trends, the question remains: will the legacy of Lukhmi be preserved or will it become a mere memory with time?
